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Mountaineer Annual, 1930-39
* Lowell Skoog has a copy of each article marked with an asterisk.

Mountaineer Annual, 1930

p. 50, Sperlin, R.B., "To Mount Baker's Summit on Skis" *

Describes a ski ascent of Mt Baker by the author and Edwin Loners, accompanied by John Booth. (Two photos of skiers climbing Coleman glacier with Black Buttes above, from cfe-scrapbook.) Leaving Seattle at 8pm on a Friday evening, the trio drove to Glacier and started hiking the ten miles to Kulshan cabin at midnight. After a hurried breakfast at the cabin (5:30am Saturday), they put on skis and continued up. Poor weather turned them back, and they spent the afternoon skiing new snow above the cabin. They overslept the next morning (Sunday, May 4), but awoke to clear weather and got moving quickly. Above the Coleman-Deming saddle they found icy conditions. Booth, a novice skier, left his skis here and continued on crampons. They reached the summit in eight hours from the cabin. They removed skis and used crampons to descend back to the saddle. From there they skied rapidly back to the cabin and headed home by moonlight.

[Note that Edwin Loners' name has been widely misspelled as Edwin Loness. I verified in the 1930 Mountaineer club roster that the correct spelling is Loners.]

p. 53, Maxwell, W.J., "Skiing Eight Months a Year" *

The author observes that a few years earlier the Puget Sound skiing season ran from Christmas through Washington's Birthday, while now it extends from early November through late June. He describes tours done around Mt Rainier: Indian Henry's Hunting Ground, Cowlitz Rocks to the Paradise River, Pinnacle-Castle saddle, Camp Muir, Paradise to the Nisqually glacier snout, and from Steamboat Prow (Interglacier) to Storbo mining camp in Glacier basin. He also describes tours around Mt Baker: Table Mountain, Shuksan Arm, Lake Ann, Kulshan Ridge, Coleman Glacier, Chain Lakes and mentions the recent ski ascent of Baker itself. He includes a colorful description of the descent from Steamboat Prow and mentions that most of these trips have been done as a "week-end holiday." Quote: "The snow peaks of Washington offer an infinite variety of ski trips, that some day will lure to the Northwest skiers from distant places."

p. 54, Shorrock, Paul, "Ski Competition, 1930" *

Describes the first year in which all eight Mountaineers trophies were regularly contested. Describes each race course in detail. The Women's skiing trophy and Harper Cup were contested on Washington's Birthday, February 23, at Snoqualmie Lodge. The slalom and downhill races were held on March 2 near Meany Ski Hut. The Meany Ski Hut races were held near the hut on March 9. The ski jumping contest was held on the rock slide at Snoqualmie Lodge on March 30.

The eighteen-mile Patrol Race (the most interesting contest from a ski mountaineering perspective) was held March 23. Conditions were unfavorable due to several days' fall of fresh snow. Four teams raced:

p. 57, Ski Committee, "Ski Tests" *

Describes refinements to the ski proficiency tests established in 1929. A qualifying test was added at each level. The class tests are as follows: Third class: Climb 500 vertical feet in one hour, returning in 15 minutes. A cross country trip of at least four miles on skis. Second class: Climb 1000 vertical feet in one hour 15 minutes, returning in 20 minutes. A cross country ski trip of at least twelve miles. First class: Climb 2000 vertical feet in one hour 30 minutes, returning in 25 minutes, or climb 1500 vertical feet in one hour five minutes, returning in 20 minutes. Make a cross country ski trip of at least 18 miles in one day. Complete a "difficult" descent of 500 feet, without a fall, within a time limit set by the judges.

A University Book Store ad for ski equipment offers "the trickiest, new accessories from Norway" including waterproof mittens with holes to accept ski poles and a ski cap with "a transparent visor and ear muffs which come down to form a helmet."

Mountaineer Annual, 1931

p. 33, Strandberg, Herbert V., "In the Heart of the Skagit" *

Account of a 14-day trip in which the author and William A. Degenhardt climbed Jack Mtn, all the principal summits in the Snowfield Peak area, and Mt Degenhardt in the southern Pickets. Except for Jack, the trip was pure pioneering. Excellent photos by the author of the Terror basin group and the Pyramid-Snowfield area. Good background info for these areas.

p. 67, Lee, Fairman B., "The Cascade Trail"

"For some time the project of a through trail from the northern part of the state to the Columbia River, via the ridges and high peaks, has been under consideration," writes the author. This article calls attention to the opportunities for climbing along the proposed route of the trail. The trail is divided into several sections:
Mt Baker section (Canadian border to Indian Pass)
Snoqualmie section (Indian Pass to Mt Rainier
Rainier section (Mt Rainier to Goat Rocks)
Columbia section (Goat Rocks to Columbia River)

p. 71, Strandberg, H. V., photo

Photo of skier, Silver Peak basin.

p. 76, "Record of Trophies" *

The Ski Patrol Trophy was not awarded.

A small ad at the back of the annual offers "Hiking and mountaineering equipment for sale or rent at Ome's Hike Shack."

Mountaineer Annual, 1932

p. 21, Strandberg, H.V., "Ten Days on Mount Terror" *

Account of the author's second venture into the southern Pickets with William A. Degenhardt and James C. Martin. They approached from Goodell Creek, climbed Pinnacle Peak (The Chopping Block), several of the Crescent Creek Spires and Mt Terror. They originally planned to traverse the entire range to Whatcom Pass but abandoned it as impractical. The article contains excellent descriptions and impressions of the previously unknown Picket Range.

p. 26, Winder, Arthur, "Mountaineer Ski Trips" *

The author observes that the Mountaineers are going farther afield on skis. He describes organized trips by large parties (more than twenty skiers) to Chinook Pass in mid-April and Cowlitz Rocks in mid-May. The latter trip opened the eyes of many to the appeal of spring skiing at higher altitudes. He discusses recent tours around Snoqualmie Lodge. The author describes the July 16 descent of Mt Adams as the outstanding ski achievement of the year. Walter Mosauer, of the Sierra Club, with Hans Grage, Otto Strizek and Hans-Otto Giese, of the Mountaineers, used skis only occasionally on the ascent, due to icy conditions. However, they skied continuously from the summit (12,307 feet) to below 6000 feet. Enigmatically, the author writes, "Mt Adams is the third of the six major peaks to fall to the conquest of skis, Mt Rainier and Mt Baker having succumbed in previous years." (The Sigurd Hall ascent of Rainier did not occur until seven years later.) The author concludes with this far-sighted observation:
"Much still remains for the Mountaineer to do. Not only is he confronted yet with the vast task of completing the exploration of his own Northwest mountains afoot, but he has as yet but scratched the surface of the possibilities of re-conquering old man mountain's domain a-ski."

p. 28, Amsler, Rudolf, "Ski Excursions from Snoqualmie Lodge and Meany Ski Hut" *

A list of 31 tours from Snoqualmie Lodge and 18 tours from Meany Ski Hut, including elevation, direction, average time going and returning, and the nature of country traveled for each tour. Many lakes, passes and significant summits are covered. It seems reasonable to assume that all these had been reached on skis by 1932, and none of the tours listed were merely speculative. The Snoqualmie Lodge tours are:
Abiel Peak Beaver Lake Commonwealth Basin Divide Lake Denny Mtn
Hyak Humpback Mtn Keechelus Mtn Lost Lake Lost Mtn
Lake Annette Lodge Mtn Mt Catherine Meadow Peak Melakwa Lakes
Mirror Lake Meany Ski Hut Olallie Meadow Pineapple Pass Rockdale Mtn
Rockdale Lake Surveyor's Lake Stirrup Lake Snoqualmie Pass Snoqualmie Mtn
Silver Peak basin Silver Peak Source Lake Snow Lake Twin Lakes
Yakima Pass
The Meany Ski Hut tours are:
Bearpaw Butte Baldy Pass Baldy Mtn Dandy Pass Keechelus Dam
Lost Mtn Meadow Peak Meany Hill Meadow Creek crossing Mosquito Peak
Snowshoe Butte Stirrup Lake Stampede Station Stampede Pass Snoqualmie Lodge
Sheets Pass Tacoma Pass Yakima Pass

p. 38, "Trophy Winners, 1932" *

The Ski Patrol trophy was won by the team of Norval W. Grigg, Fred W. Ball and Hans Otto Giese.

Mountaineer Annual, 1933

p. 12, Blair, Donald, "The Ascent of Eldorado Peak" *

Account of the August 27, 1933 first ascent of Eldorado Peak by Norval W. Grigg, Arthur R. Winder, Arthur T. Wilson and the author in a twelve hour round trip from high camp at 3500 feet on Sibley Creek, following the Triad high route. Includes this observation: "The last part of the route lay along a knife-edge of snow. This snow ridge, although apparently higher than the summit rocks, did not appear to be permanent. It is the belief of those in the party that, in a year with normal snowfall, it would not exist that late in the season."

p. 15, Daiber, George C., "Skiing in the Olympics" *

Account of a five-day trip on skis by the author and a companion in late spring 1933 to the High Divide near Bogachiel Peak approaching from Sol Duc Hot Springs via Deer Lake. The party descended into the Hoh River valley, then began their return trip on the third day due to poor weather. The author writes enthusiastically about the potential for skiing in the Olympics: "Most of the upper country is park-like with long sweeping slopes over which one can ski for miles."

p. 16, Hayes, Robert H., "The Mountaineer Influence in Northwest Skiing" *

A generalized accounting of the influence of the Mountaineers in early Northwest skiing. Few specific facts. The author acknowledges "persistent Mountaineers" exploring the Snoqualmie Lodge country, winter club outings to Longmire and Paradise, construction of Meany Ski Hut, efforts to make equipment available through local outfitters, and the development of instruction and competition. The author notes that, "It was only natural that new organizations should spring up, bringing increased facilities for enjoyment of the sport." Unfortunately, he does not name these organizations or provide specifics. He mentions that Snoqualmie Pass now offers parking facilities for over a thousand cars and "a winter colony has sprung up at Paradise." He concludes that, "Knowledge of the part our Club has played in getting this great movement under way should be a constant source of gratification to every member of the organization."

p. 17, Bowman, Donald, photo

A fine photograph of a ski runner in powder in Paradise Valley, accompanying the Robert Hayes article.

p. 23, "Mountaineering Notes" *

Gear news. Describes plywood skis, a trend away from the narrow skis popular in Norway to a broader, shorter model known in Switzerland as slalom skis, Bildstein release bindings, a locally made Alpina-type binding, a 24 inch sealskin that plugs through the ski and fastens with a tension lever, eliminating straps, a canvas "climbing sock" that slips over the tail of the ski and fastens in front of the binding, a European trend toward a shorter (30 inch) ice axe, and refinements in boot nails.

p. 24, "Trophy Winners, 1933" *

The Ski Patrol trophy was won by the team of H.V. Strandberg, Arthur T. Wilson and Donald Blair.

There are a handful of ads for ski gear at the back of the annual.

Mountaineer Annual, 1934

p. 2, Hayes, R. H., "Winter Interlude"

A photo of Mt Rainier and ski tracks near Chinook Pass, "one of the lesser known ski regions."

p. 11, Grigg, N.W. and Arthur R. Winder, "The Lake Chelan Region" *

This important article provides extensive information and impressions of the heart of the North Cascades, from Diablo Reservoir in the north to the Chiwawa River in the south and from the Cascade River in the west to the Twisp River in the east. The article opens with a stirring description of the view from Mt Logan (including a photograph of unclimbed Mt Goode), cataloging important summits and mountain regions visible from that point. Approaching from Stehekin, with Don Blair, the authors attempted Mt Goode, then on the following day (July 23) made the second ascent of Mt Logan. Two days later they made the third ascent of Mt Buckner, via a gully leading to Horseshoe Basin from the Buckner Glaciers. The authors describe this as the grandest mountain area in Washington--larger than the Olympics, with the greatest collection of large and high peaks, and the most glaciation. They catalog approaches from all sides. They describe the exploratory contributions of Hermann Ulrichs, including an attempt on Goode with Dan O'Brien just days before their own. They end with a call to their peers to take up the challenge of exploring the region: "Here are mountains for Mountaineers."

p. 20, Strizek, Otto P., "Paradise to White River Camp on Skis" *

Describes a spring ski traverse over the east flank of Mt Rainier via Camp Muir, Cathedral Rocks and the Emmons Glacier by Ben Spellar, Orville Borgersen and the author. They started soon after sunrise and climbed to Muir on crampons, plagued at times by wind and low clouds. From Muir they switched to skis and descended about 1000 feet on Cowlitz Glacier before crossing Cathedral Rocks. Then they climbed Ingraham Glacier to the prow of Little Tahoma. Finding the Emmons badly crevassed and overtaken by clouds and snow, they removed skis and crossed part of the way with crampons and rope. They eventually switched back to skis and navigated through variable clouds to Camp Curtis. They skied Interglacier and hiked the last twelve or thirteen miles to their car, arriving about 6 pm.

p. 25, Anderson, A.W., "Ski Competition in 1934" *

Summary of competition results. Arthur T. Wilson swept the slalom, downhill and cross-country (aka University Book Store, Meany Ski Hut) races. Joe Long won the Harper Cup and Herbert V. Strandberg won the ski jumping tournament. The Patrol Race was not held. 1934 marked the first participation of The Mountaineers in competition outside the club. Arthur Wilson won the Class B cross-country race held by the Seattle Ski Club at Beaver Lake. In the Silver Skis race, from Camp Muir to Paradise, Wolf Bauer, despite disqualification for missing a control gate, won fifth place and Arthur Wilson finished fifteenth.

p. 26, 30, "Gear and Gadgets" *

Notes on the merits of metal edged skis, spare ski tips, ice axe straps, bivouac sacks, instep crampons, Bilgeri Ice Blades (harscheisen?), a binding tension spring for downhill running, graphite waxing, and Bildstein heel clips. Several ads near the end of the annual offer equipment brands "used by the Byrd Antarctic Expedition."

Mountaineer Annual, 1935

p. 12, A random note appears: "Light crampons for slippery trails and spring skiing are again the center of discussion. The instep type, described in last year's annual, have the annoying habit of slipping up on the edge of the boot when making traverses, if they are not adjusted perfectly. The sole type fastened by a clip on the toe and a strap over the instep are now considered superior although the objection is advanced that they are awkward going down hill. The logical answer to this, is of course, that good skiers do not walk down, but even this is not always the practical suggestion."

p. 16, "Avalanche Warnings" *

Advice for avoiding avalanches, condensed from Gerald Seligman's "An Examination of Snow Deposits" in the British Ski Year Books of 1932-34. The article states that avalanche accidents have been on the increase in the Northwest, and "there has also been a regrettable tendency to hush up the attendant publicity on such accidents, with the result that the general public is not fully aware of the tremendous danger from sliding snow."

p. 17, Anderson, Andrew W., "The Past Ski Year" *

Summary of competition results. (The author notes that ski competition has been covered in detail in the Ski Tips column of the monthly Bulletin.) Arthur Wilson defended his cross-country title by a margin of ten minutes over the 7-mile Meany Ski Hut course. Herbert Strandberg defended his jumping title. The Patrol Race was run again after a one-year lapse on February 17. Arthur Wilson, Scott Edson and Bill Degenhardt won in 5:35:22, six minutes ahead of Wolf Bauer, Chester J. and Bob Higman. Arthur Wilson was the top Mountaineer finisher (10th) in the Beaver Lake invitational slalom meet on February 3. A meet between the newly formed Mountaineers ski team and the University of Washington ski team resulted in a tie, with Arthur Wilson finishing first in the cross-country and second in the slalom.

The National Downhill and Slalom Championships were held at Paradise on April 13 and 14. The author notes that the level of skill displayed by the best Austrian and Dartmouth University competitors was far above the local skiers. Hannes Schroll of Austria won both the downhill and slalom. His downhill time of 2:35 on the more than two-mile course was over a minute ahead of Dick Durrance of Dartmouth.

Organized ski outings were made to Chinook Pass and Crystal Lake during the season, and small parties ventured to Stevens Pass, the northwest side of Mt Rainier and areas above Index. The author expresses concern that ski tests and instruction were neglected by club members in 1935, and suggests that the Mountaineers may be resting on their laurels. It seems apparent that the events of 1935 made some Mountaineers aware that the skiers outside the Northwest were ahead of them in technique, and in even in the Northwest, they were at risk of lagging behind.

p. 20, "Gear and Gadgets"

Mentions half-length mohair climbing skins and other innovations.

Mountaineer Annual, 1936

p. 9, Dickert, O. Phillip, "The Challenge of Challenger" *

Account of the first ascent of Mt Challenger and an early ascent of Whatcom Peak by Jack Hossack, George McGowan and the author on September 7, 1936. The party approached via Hannegan Pass, Easy Ridge, Perfect Impasse (crossing high) and Perfect Pass, which they named. Fine photo by the author of Challenger from Whatcom. Little in the way of colorful description, but good background on the earliest explorations into the northern Pickets.

p. 11, Farr, Forest W., "Finger in the Pie" *

Account of an attempt in early August, 1936 by Art Winder and the author on Spider Mountain, approaching from the middle fork Cascade River. They gave the name "Cascade" to the north-flowing glacier between Spider and Formidable (a summit unnamed at that time). They attempted to climb the northwest ridge of Spider but turned back due to loose rock. They were perhaps the first to view the Le Conte glacier from this angle and were surprised to find that it occupied only the high bench below Sentinel Peak, while their maps showed it covering the entire basin of the headwaters of Flat Creek. The article reveals the allure felt by climbers of the day "to complete the conquest of the Cascade Crest," the section of the range south of Cascade Pass now known as the Ptarmigan Traverse.

p. 16, "Grigg, N.W., "Dome Peak" *

Account of the 1st ascents of both summits of Dome Peak during the summer of 1936. The SW summit was climbed from Sulphur Creek on July 5 by the Seattle party of Don Blair, Forest Farr and the author, while Robert Hayes stayed below to take photographs. The NE (higher) summit was climbed from Agnes Creek via the Chickamin Glacier on August 1 by Erick Larson and George Freed, of Everett. Describes early references to and attempts on the peak.

p. 18, Hayes, Robert H., "Mountaineer ski team at Mt Baker"

Fine photograph (captioned) of the Mountaineers 1936 ski team in front of Mt Shuksan. Team includes Wolf Bauer and Don Blair. Photo accompanies the Andrew Anderson article.

p. 18, Dickert, O. Phillip, "Powder snow on Silver Peak, near Snoqualmie Lodge"

Fine photograph of five skiers, crouched and open-stanced, skiing through a glade of trees. Photo accompanies the Andrew Anderson article.

p. 19, Anderson, Andrew W., "Skiing in Retrospect" *

A somewhat wistful look at how much skiing has changed since the years when the Mountaineers were among the pioneering participants. The sport has become widely popular with the general public, facilities have been expanded greatly, equipment is readily available, and many clubs have been formed. The article summarizes competition results by Mountaineer members. It was a good year for Wolf Bauer, winning the Mountaineer cross-country, slalom and downhill trophies and placing well in regional competitions. The club Patrol Race was run in perfect conditions on February 16 and won by Wolf Bauer, Chet Higman and Bill Miller in 4:27:23, nearly an hour faster than the old record. With this precedent, the first Patrol Race open to all Northwest clubs was hosted by the Mountaineers on March 16. Five teams entered. The author writes, "Patterned after the popular military patrol races in Europe, it is the only event of its kind in this country so far as we have been able to ascertain." The Seattle Ski Club team, veteran cross-country experts, won the open race in 4:50:39, despite variable snow conditions. Following the successful race, the Pacific Northwest Ski Association sanctioned the Patrol Race as an official event. The article concludes with a discussion of the requirements for successful future competitions.

p. 25, "Gear and Gadgets"

Notes on ski bindings and the "Pack-jacket," a combination ski parka and rucksack "conceived by the nimble mind of Ome Daiber."

Ski equipment ads near the back of the Annual are now routine.

Mountaineer Annual, 1937

p. 9, Nelson, L.A., "The First Decade in Mountaineer Annals" *

A few helpful facts: By 1916 Paradise Inn was built, and the Mountaineers held a winter outing there. Travel was by train to Ashford, then by foot or bobsled to Longmire, where they stayed the night, finally making their own trail on snowshoes to Paradise the next day.

p. 13, Hazard, Joseph T., "Our Second Ten Years" *

The author writes: "Cross-country skiing had begun in the Northwest in 1915-16, when it had been announced that, 'Mr. Thor Bisgaard, Tacoma Mountaineer, and an experienced ski runner, will be in the party, and will gladly give instructions in skiing.'" The announcement for the following year's winter outing to Paradise (Dec 28, 1916 to Jan 1, 1917) declared, 'Wm. P. Trowbridge, tobogganing chief, Thor Bisgaard, skiing chief.' Hazard describes these events as "The birth of skiing in the Pacific Northwest."

p. 16, Ryder, Madalene, "The Third Decade" *

Mentions that winter road access on Mt Rainier now extends to Narada Falls, with shuttle service from there to Paradise.

p. 28, Watson, Dwight and Walter Hoffman, "Ski Scouting" *

An important article. At a time when the number of skiing clubs and tournaments has exploded, and some Mountaineers ponder whether they can stay at the forefront of the new mass sport, Dwight Watson and Walter Hoffman chart a different course. The authors choose, as they put it, to "do things on skis," systematically exploring new and remote mountain areas.

They describe a trip on May 1-2, 1937 to Sibley Creek basin, west of Eldorado Peak. They reached the shoulder just north of Sibley Pass, and wrote enthusiastically about what they saw: "Most thrilling of all--the Cascade Crest Region [Ptarmigan traverse] south of Cascade Pass where the white of winter is lost amid the wild confusion of pinnacles deep etched and sufficiently forbidding to cause one member of the party to exclaim excitedly, 'Oh! My gosh, what is that? ...I thought I was back in the Alps.'"

This article uses the term "El Dorado country" to refer to the entire region northeast of Sibley Pass (which is where the views of Eldorado Peak begin). It does not mention reaching Eldorado Peak, nor does it describe the challenge of traversing The Triad in spring conditions to reach the Eldorado Glacier. The authors write, "The day waned rapidly, and all too soon we took a last farewell look and were off to the big basin below, then on to the cabin." My sense is that this outing did not reach Eldorado Peak on skis.

The authors describe approaching Mt Stuart on skis from the Teanaway River in May. They describe a Memorial Day trip up the Little Wenatchee River road, skiing up Kodak Peak, then traversing north to White Mtn, where they describe a splendid view of Glacier Peak and the Whitechuck Glacier area. They also describe a ski ascent of the east peak of Mt Daniel, ventures into the Goat Rocks, and a 7000-foot descent of Mt Adams from summit to snowline. The Cowlitz Chimneys area was visited both from Summerland and by traversing the high country westward from Cayuse Pass. In the Olympics they describe skiing into the High Divide from Sol Duc Hot Springs and the north end of the Bailey Range, including Cat Peak and Mt Carrie, from Olympic Hot Springs.

Except for the Sibley-Eldorado trip, no dates are provided, nor are the party members of the individual trips identified. There's no way to know from this article whether Watson and Hoffman did all these trips together, or whether others were involved.

p. 39, "Trophy and Cup Awards" *

The Mooers' trophy for the Open Patrol Race was won by the team of Wm. A. Degenhardt, Scott Edson and Sigurd Hall.

A full page Anderson & Thompson ad at the back of the annual has nice photos of a pair of skis and a stemming skier and features "the Otto Lang Model...Guaranteed against breakage."

Mountaineer Annual, 1938

Contains accounts of the first ascents of Spire Point (p. 27) and Gunsight Peak (Blue Mtn, p. 28), background on the state of exploration at the time of the first Ptarmigan traverse.

p. 40, "Activities"

Mentions that Arnold Lunn gave an illustrated talk on skiing to the club. Also mentions that the club "decided to abandon outside ski competition with the exception of retention of membership in Pacific Northwest Ski Association and continuance of the Open Patrol Race." A ski lift is planned at Meany Ski Hut for the coming season. Mentions a March 12-13 special outing by 136 members to Deer Park and notes that it is the second year "The Mountaineers have invaded the heart of the Olympic ski grounds in increasing numbers."

p. 43, "Trophy Awards" *

The Mooers' trophy for the Open Patrol Race was won by the team of Scott Edson, Sigurd Hall and Arthur Wilson.

Mountaineer Annual, 1939

p. 18, "Meany Ski Hut"

Describes the new ski lift as 835 feet long, rising 310 feet in less than two minutes. "It is so constructed that a skier may get off at any level."

p. 20, "Trophy Awards" *

The Mooers' trophy for the Open Patrol Race was won by the Seattle Ski Club.

p. 22, "The Year in Everett"

Says that planning has begun on a long-discussed ski hut at Stevens Pass. Walter Little heads the committee working on it. The article predicts that winter 1941-42 will see regular road traffic from November to May, when the pass has always been closed.

p. 30, Hall, Sigurd, "Mount Rainier on Skis" *

Account of a complete ski ascent of Rainier on July 2, 1939. After their ski party dwindled to two, Andy Hennig and the author joined forces with a party on foot led by Larry Penberthy. They climbed on skis using klister to Camp Curtis, and used Ostbye Skare wax the next morning to climb toward the summit. Hennig had binding trouble and changed to crampons, while Hall continued on skis to Columbia Crest, resorting to side-stepping on his steel edges when the snow became too hard and steep. Worsening weather prevented the snow near the summit from softening, so they descended on crampons to about 12,000 feet. They skied from there to Camp Curtis and down the Interglacier to Storbo Cabin, where they waited for Penberthy and companions to join them.

p. 50, Norden, Phyllis, "The Mountaineer Rescue Patrol" *

In the fall of 1938, the need for proper first aid and rescue methods was forcibly brought home to members of the Mountaineers. In response, the club purchased a Stokes stretcher, organized a first aid course, and set up a rescue patrol consisting of about 25 Mountaineer climbers, all with rescue experience or training. A central phone committee was established and an accident response form was distributed to club climbers and outside officials. The author describes the steps to be followed in case of an accident. Fortunately, the services of the Mountaineers Rescue Patrol were not needed during the 1939 climbing season.

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