Only trips of at least one week duration are listed here. Primary source material is a 42-page hand-written record by Joe Firey, prepared in 2006. Additional information has been gathered from The Canadian Alpine Journal (CAJ), The Mountaineer annual (MtneerA), Summit magazine, and Don Serl’s Waddington Guide (Serl-2003). In this summary “FA” means either first ascent or new route.
1946
Northern Pickets, WA: Whatcom, Challenger
1948
Central Selkirks (Rogers Pass), BC: Glacier Circle cabin, lightning.
1949
Central Selkirks, BC: Dawson East Peak, Castor, Pollux, Leda.
1950
Central Selkirks, BC: Dawson Main Peak, Augustine, Donkin.
1951
Central Selkirks, BC: Sir Donald NW Ridge.
1953
Southern Selkirks, BC: Templeman (FA), Abbott, Sir Donald in storm.
1955
Northern Selkirks (Fairy Meadows), BC: Austerity, Gothic, Pioneer, Ironman.
1957
Northern Selkirks, BC: Gothic, Austerity, Adamant via Stickle Col (FA).
1958
Canadian Rockies, AB: Athabaska, Edith Cavell, Robson attempt.
1959
Central Selkirks, BC: Sir Donald, Tupper.
1960
Northern Pickets, WA: Crooked Thumb, Phantom, Challenger South Ridge (FA).
1961
Northern Pickets, WA: Luna, Fury East to West Traverse (FA).
Southern Pickets, WA: Terror, Otto Horn (FA), Himmelgeister Horn (FA), Frenzel Spitze (FA).
1962
Southern Pickets, WA: Pyramid, Degenhardt Glacier (FA), SE Fury (FA).
Northern Selkirks, BC: Austerity, Gothics, Sentinel, Silvertip, Blackfriar South Ridge (FA).
1963
Monarch Ice Cap, BC: Geryon (FA), Chilicootin, Tzintli (FA), Crystal Spire (FA), Sciron (FA), Chili (FA); see CAJ-1965 p161.
1964
Monarch Ice Cap, BC: Helios (FA), Luna (FA), Horribilis (FA), Second Fiddle (FA); see CAJ-1965 p162.
1965
“Clarkachamna Peaks,” AK: “Citadel” (FA), other small peaks (FA) in Neacola Mountains.
1966
Monarch Ice Cap, BC: West Jacobsen NW Ridge (FA), Snowside East Ridge (FA), “Genghis” (FA); see CAJ-1967 p21.
1967
Monarch Ice Cap, BC: Monarch West Face, Princess, Camelot Spires (FA); see CAJ-1968 p197.
1968
Waddington Range (Tiedemann Glacier), BC: Spearman, Waddington Main Peak, Combatant attempt.
Southern Pickets, WA: West Twin Needle North Face (FA), East Twin Needle (FA).
1969
Southern Pickets, WA: Inspiration, McMillan Spires, Degenhardt.
McAllister Creek Traverse, WA: Snowfield, Needle, Klawatti Klaws (FA), Austera Towers (FA), Eldorado; see MtneerA-1972 p43.
1970
Goodell Creek Traverse, WA: Chopping Block NE Ridge (FA), Terror SE Ridge (FA), Ghost (FA); see Summit-1971-Apr p18.
1971
Ragged Ridge Traverse, WA: Fisher, Repulse (FA); see MtneerA-1972 p51.
1972
Waddington Range (Combatant Col), BC: Combatant NNW Ridge (FA), Waddington NW Peak via Angel Glacier (FA), Hickson, Geddes NE Ridge (FA), hiked out via Bifrost Pass, see CAJ-1973 p63 and Serl-2003 p125, p238, p286.
1973
Tombstone Mountains, Yukon: McGrew and three other peaks (FA) by Carla, Jim and friends.
Bella Coola Mountains, BC: Nyland (FA), The Horn (FA), East and West Arjuna (FA), highest Edwards Peak; see CAJ-1974 p68.
1974
Waddington Range (Tellot Glacier), BC: Serra I Ladies Route (FA), Serra III, Claw, Asperity NW Face (FA); see Serl-2003 p305, p339.
1975
North Baird Glacier, AK: Several peaks (FAs).
1976
Waddington Range (Tellot Glacier), BC: McCormick, Argiewicz North Ridge (FA), Claw, Shand, Tellot, Termination, Dragonback; see Serl-2003 p373.
Bacon Creek Traverse, WA: Despair, Bacon, Diobsud Butte (FA).
1977
Wind River Range, WY: Fremont buttresses (FA), Ellingwood, Twin Peaks, Woodrow Wilson.
1978
Bugaboos, BC: Pigeon, Snowpatch, Bugaboo, Sir Donald (in Selkirks).
1979
Waddington Range (Radiant Glacier), BC: Tiedemann, Damocles, Chaos, Unicorn, Satyr South Ridge (FA), Centaur; see CAJ-1980 p81 and Serl-2003 p405.
1980
Pantheon Range (Ragnarok Glacier), BC: Pegasus SW Face (FA), Fenris NW Ridge (FA), Thor NW Ridge (FA), Zeus NW Face (FA), several other peaks (FA); see CAJ-1981 p67.
1981
Western Pantheon Range, BC: Nemesis Peaks, others (all FA); see CAJ-1982 p41.
1982
Starbird Peaks, Purcells, BC: North Star, Gwenalin, Black Fang.
1983
Waddington Range (Grennelle Group), BC: Grennelle, Irresistible, Sierra, Fascination.
1984
Queen Bess Area, BC: Mantle, Queen Bess, Essex, plus unnamed peak.
1985
Waddington Range (Remote Glacier), BC: Dorothy, Broad, Trylon South Face (FA), Skean, Angina SE Face (FA), Triangle SW Ridge (FA), Mt Bell attempt; see CAJ-1986 p58 and Serl-2003 p143-145.
1986
Monarch Ice Cap, BC: Basin Peak, Chili Tower, Cerberus NW Ridge (FA), “Sumquolt Peak” (FA); see CAJ-1987 p82.
1987
Waddington Range (Geddes Glacier), BC: Geddes Dogleg Couloir (FA), Privation South Ridge (FA), Chris Spencer North Ridge (FA); see Serl-2003 p124, p129, p156.
1988
Monarch Ice Cap, BC: Sciron south side (FA), Crystal Tower North Ridge (FA), Basin Peak; see CAJ-1989 p95.
1989
Waddington Range (Bifrost Pass), BC: Whitesaddle Mtn, Delusion South Face (FA), Frontier (FA), Cornelia East Ridge (FA); see CAJ-1990 p61, Serl-2003 p109, p120.
1990
Monarch Ice Cap, BC: East Jacobsen, Ogre, Hornet, Mongols.
1991
Bella Coola Mountains (West Edwards), BC: two peaks (FA).
1992
Bella Coola Mountains (East Edwards), BC: three peaks (FA); see CAJ-1993 p88.
1996
Waddington Range (Tellot Glacier), BC: Despair, Hall, McCowan, Heartstone.
1997
Bella Coola Mountains (Noomst Creek Glacier), BC: two peaks, Matterhorn attempt. At nearly 79, Joe found that his sense of balance while traversing boulder fields was not too good. “The time had come to hang up the ice axe and take up armchair mountaineering,” he wrote. |