Alpenglow Ski Mountaineering History Project

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Mountaineer Bulletin, 1940-49

Mountaineer Bulletins, 1940

May, 1940, p. 4, "In Memoriam"

"Sigurd Hall was our friend and companion. He worked with us in planning and building; his strong body and high spirit brought leadership on trail and peak; he led the way in our friendly contests.

"He was killed below Anvil Rock, on April 15, 1940, in the Post-Intelligencer Silver Skis race from Camp Muir to Paradise, in a wild challenge of speed that hurtled him into the rocks beside the course. He was "taking it straight," just as he had always taken both recreation and life through the short span of his 25 years. We, his friends of The Mountaineers, will remember Sigurd Hall, and we will miss him."

Mountaineer Bulletins, 1941

February, 1941, p. 3, "Ski Touring Program"

"Something new has been planned whereby all skiers will be classified according to skill. Tours will give the beginners a chance for real skiing fun and the experts roped schussing on glacial slopes." The announcement describes four skier classifications and several scheduled tours, including ski ascents of Mounts Baker, Adams, St Helens, and Little Tahoma, tours to Seattle Park and the Emmons and Tahoma Glaciers on Mt Rainier, and a tour to the Eldorado Peak country. This announcement marks the beginning of organized ski mountaineering by The Mountaineers. The July 1941 bulletin contains a report of a successful ski ascent of Mount St Helens on May 11, 1941. More ascents during the season are detailed in the 1941 Mountaineer Annual (mtneer-a-1941-p11a).

The ski touring classifications include:
Class 4: Snowplow. Kick turns on steep slope.
Class 3: Stem turns. Climb and descend 300 feet in 40 minutes. Tour two or three miles over easy ground.
Class 2: Pass Elementary Climbing Course. Demonstrate stem christie, side-slip, rope belaying. Roped skiing through gates.
Class 1: For exceptional skiers. [Never used, as far as I can tell.]

June, 1941, p. 3, "Notes of Trustees' Meeting"

Walter B. Little, ski chairman, reported on the success of the ski tours. About half the money appropriated for the ski committee has been spent, over 99% of it under the general heading of "Competition." Little moved to eliminate the Open Ski Patrol Race from the Mountaineer ski program (finalized in later bulletins). In the July 1941 bulletin, "The ski chairman reported on work being done in the development of a Winter Ski Mountaineering course to consist of six class meetings, two field practice trips, the course to last through January."

November, 1941, p. 1, "Ski Mountaineering Course"

The first lecture of the new ski mountaineering course is scheduled on November 4, 1941. "The primary purpose of the course is to increase the ability of skiers to go in safety among high mountains and in remote areas." The course will include eight evening sessions and four weekend practice trips. Classroom sessions include: Elementary Principles, Snowcraft and Waxing, Avalanches, Route Finding, Snow Camping, Emergencies, Glacier Skiing, and Final Examination. Practice trips include improvement of skiing technique, snow camping, equipment check, map and compass practice, sled rescue, crevasse rescue, and roped-skiing practice. The article includes a list of ski committee members in charge of the course. Walter B. Little is chairman.

The January 1942 bulletin lists several classroom and field sessions. The March 1942 bulletin announces the final, required, roped skiing and crevasse rescue trip, in Edith Creek Basin near Paradise Inn.

Mountaineer Bulletins, 1942

May, 1942, p. 3, "Class 2 Ski Trip"

The bulletin lists several ski trips grouped by difficulty using the rating system defined in mtneer-b-1941-feb (class 2 through 4). They include a ski ascent of Mt Baker from Camp Kaiser, a tour to Observation Rock, and an exploratory trip toward Mt Hinman. This is a sample of the activity; other bulletins had trips scheduled as well.

August, 1942, p. 3, "Ski-Mountaineering Course"

Graduates from the 1941-42 Ski Mountaineering course: Anne Cederquist, Mr. and Mrs. Wm. A. Degenhardt, Gummie Johnson, Walter B. Little, and Roy A Snider. The September 1942 bulletin lists more graduates: Paul Kennedy and Arthur Pedersen.

Mountaineer Bulletins, 1943

October, 1943, p. 3, "Stop, Look and Listen"

Graduates from the 1942-43 Ski Mountaineering course: Joe Buswell, Walt Hoffman, Dave Lind, Ken Prestrud, Burpee Stevens, and Chuck Welsh.

December, 1943, p. 3, "Revised Ski Tests"

This is a revision to the ski touring touring tests (see mtneer-b-1941-feb). The class 3 and 4 tests have been made somewhat more demanding. The class 4 test requires kick turns, snow plow, side slip, and linked stem turns. The class 3 test requires kick turns, stop christies, linked turns on steeper slopes, and a 500 foot ascent and descent without climbers in one hour. "Generally, a skier must be able to pass the fourth-class test for the ski mountaineering trips."

Mountaineer Bulletins, 1944

July, 1944, p. 3, "Ski Mountaineering Course"

Graduates from the 1943-44 Ski Mountaineering course: Helmy Beckey, Elov Bodin, Charles Cehrs, Lloyd Owens, Florence Sands.

August, 1944, p. 4, "Ascents"

"Mount Hinman (7494 ft.), May 7, 1944: Charles Cehrs, David Lind, Dwight Watson, and two guests made a ski ascent via the north glacier." The bulletin also lists an ascent of Snowgrass Mountain on May 30, 1944 by the same party, but this is not listed as a ski ascent.

Mountaineer Bulletins, 1945

June, 1945, p. 5, "Business In Brief"

"N.W. Ski Patrol, made up largely of Mountaineers, and under leadership of Lyle St. Louis, has expended a great amount of time and effort in organizing an efficient unit to assist Army in rescue of flyers forced down in mountainous areas. Many of these members were out three and four days searching for the flyers who bailed out of an Army Liberator Bomber in the vicinity of the Carbon River country. The Army has furnished little in the way of rescue equipment needed for the work and the sacrifice to the individual in time, equipment and finances was considerable."

Mountaineer Bulletins, 1946

January, 1946, p. 3, "Business In Brief"

"Mr. Preston of Rainier National Park stated it was the policy of the Service to develop ski and recreational areas to benefit greatest number of people, but not so as to change or interfere with natural features. Also to discourage exhibitions designed to attract large crowds of spectators, i.e. Silver Ski races and winter carnivals. Tows and ski jumps which could be removed at end of season favored by Service."

May, 1946, p. 5, "Accidents"

"In the event of a serious accident to a member of your climbing party whom you are not able to bring out, telephone AV. 3511, Lyle St. Louis, or KE. 0291, Matie Daiber." (Mountaineers Rescue Patrol)

August, 1946, p. 3, "Army Crampons Prohibited on Mt Rainier"

Mr. Preston, Superintendent of Rainier National Park sent a letter to the Mountaineers: "The use of so-called Army-type crampons is prohibited on the summit climb and on other climbs of comparable difficulty in the park." No explanation is given.

Mountaineer Bulletins, 1947

May, 1947, p. 5, "Ski Tours"

A ski ascent of Whitehorse Mountain, led by Charlie Cehrs, is scheduled on May 11. Ascents of St Helens and Baker are also scheduled. Walt Little is currently ski chairman.

August, 1947, p. 3, "Accidents"

"To obtain assistance of a Mountaineer rescue party call only ONE of the following committee. If you cannot contact the first one you call, try some one else on the committee, but only notify one person." The names are Matie Daiber, Louise Newell, Maxine Hagen, Jane MacGowan, Betty MacLean, and Mary Hossack. (Mountaineers Rescue Patrol)

Mountaineer Bulletins, 1948

February, 1948, p. 3, "Ski Classification"

The classification is simpler than ever:
Class 2 - Four linked christianias on a 35 degree slope.
Class 3 - Four controlled, linked downhill turns on a 25 degree slope.
Class 4 - Four downhill traverses and kick turns on a 30 degree slope.

September, 1948, p. 2, "Rescue Patrol"

"The recently organized regional Mountain Rescue & Safety Council, in which our safety committee is active, wishes to obtain a list of mountaineers willing to be called for search and rescue operation." The club seeks to recruit thirty men, graduates of intermediate classes. Matie Daiber is the contact.

Mountaineer Bulletins, 1949

November, 1949, p. 4, "Climbing Reports"

"The Board of Trustees at their last regular meeting authorized the discontinuation of the publishing of climbs not sponsored by the Mountaineers. In the future only those climbs sponsored by the club, and the names of those people completing pin peaks will be published in the Bulletin." In "Business in Brief" (p. 3) it says that climbs made in violation of the Climbing Code will also not be acknowledged by the club. "Bulletin accounts of climbs will be limited to regularly scheduled Mountaineer climbs and pin peak completions only. Outstanding ascents and exploratory climbing deserve detailed accounts in the Annual."

December, 1949, p. 4, "Ski Mountaineering Course"

Roger Freeman is the chairman of the ski mountaineering course. (John F. Fuller is ski recreation chairman.) The course description begins: "Most skiing in the Pacific Northwest is done on little rope tow slopes. The magnificent ski touring possibilities of our mountain ranges and their long down hill runs are known but to few. For those skiers among the Mountaineers who long for more than ballroom skiing, who yearn for the thrill of cutting their tracks down virgin slopes, we are running, as we have for several years past, a Ski Mountaineering Course..."